Future-proof beauty: A wrap-up of in-cosmetics Global 2025

The biotech approach not only elevates efficacy but also supports sustainability. This happens by moving away from traditional extraction methods and focusing on microbial synthesis. Biotechnology was front and center this year, showcasing a shift towards high-performing, sustainable solutions:

Evonik launched multiple biotech-powered actives and functional ingredients, including:
 

• Vecollage® Fortify GP, a vegan, skin-identical collagen polypeptide using epigenetics for dual anti-aging action
• RHEANCE® D50, a fermentation-based, vegan biosurfactant suitable for certified natural cosmetics
• dermosoft® GPT MB, a renewable, catalyzed-process antimicrobial that supports the skin microbiome

Ashland reinforced this theme with collapeptyl™ biofunctional, the first-ever "hyalupeptide hybrid". It combines the benefits of hyaluronic acid and collagen peptides. It is 99.7% natural, vegan-compatible, and designed for instant 'glass skin' effects and long-term wrinkle correction.
 

SpecialChem team with team Ashland

Hyaluronic acid has long been a go-to molecule for hydration, but this year's show highlighted how biotech is redefining its delivery and performance. LipoTrue's Se(HA)+™ represents a breakthrough in HA technology. Using a proprietary marine ferment, the ingredient mimics and enhances the skin's own hyaluronic acid network. This results in deeper, longer-lasting hydration and visible plumping effects in as little as 30 minutes.

Uniproma introduced ARRELASTIN™, a recombinant human elastin developed through bioengineering. Unlike other elastin fragments or peptides, ARRELASTIN™ is designed to mimic native human elastin at the molecular level. Thus restoring elasticity where it is been lost due to aging or environmental stress.

Innova BM presented InnovaBioTech Resurrection, a next-gen anti-aging ingredient. It is made through in vitro cultivation of the rare Haberlea rhodopensis, also known as the resurrection plant. This ingredient taps into the plant's extraordinary ability to survive desiccation and revive itself — an ability now repurposed for skin cell rejuvenation.

Microphyt introduced PhycoAge™ and PhycoSi™, both targeting the fundamental mechanisms of skin aging.

 

• PhycoAge™ is a bioactive ingredient addressing multiple signs of aging by visibly firming, lifting, and rejuvenating the skin
• PhycoSi™ introduces an upcycled, bioavailable form of marine silicium that enhances skin suppleness and resilience

SEIWA KASEI contributed to this narrative with iVC™ 3GA, a vitamin C derivative engineered for high stability and effective ROS (Reactive Oxygen Species) inhibition. It targets age-related pigmentation, dullness, and wrinkle formation — not just from UV rays, but also from blue light and infrared radiation.

 

In contrast to the 'anti-aging' rhetoric of the past, in-cosmetics 2025 amplified the theme of 'well-aging'. This led to championing products that enhance skin longevity, restore function, and embrace the beauty of aging naturally. In this framework, aging skin isn't a problem to be corrected but a process to be supported — holistically, authentically, and sustainably.
 

Givaudan Active Beauty took this narrative to the next level with the launch of the following:
 

• PrimalHyal™ UltraReverse, a new intracellular hyaluronic acid. It has one of the lowest molecular weights on the market (under 3 kDa). It penetrates skin cells to modulate epigenetics, repair DNA, activate telomerase, and boost proteostasis. Thus, directly addressing four of the five hallmarks of skin aging

• Evernityl™ showcases a leap forward in anti-aging science by targeting a newly discovered skin aging pathway — 'Porphyr'ageing™'— caused by microbial byproducts called porphyrins. It stimulates extracellular matrix synthesis for improved skin firmness

Ashland's Blumilight™ biofunctional offers antioxidant protection against photodamage induced by blue light and UV. It is ideal for urban skincare, anti-aging routines, and hyperpigmentation defense. 

Kensing's Vitamin E research focuses on its role in combating oxy-aging. It highlights the growing understanding of how lipid antioxidants — specifically RRR-α-tocopherol — can prevent lipid peroxidation and improve skin elasticity.

KLK OLEO's DavosLife E3 Tocotrienols offer protection against blue light and pollution. It combines antioxidant potency with gentle, biocompatible action. It neutralizes oxidative stress induced by digital screens and urban pollution.

CLR's CutiGuard CLR™ targets visible age-related fatigue by enhancing the skin's youthful appearance within weeks. This is a claim backed by a unique "first impressions" study involving 170 participants. 

Provital's PUREBLOME™ is the latest ecosystem ingredient that balances and regenerates mature, acne-prone skin by leveraging nature's symbiotic intelligence.

Oat Cosmetics introduced their AvenaPLex lipid complex extracted from the oat kernel using ethanol. It is known to visibly reduce wrinkles and boost hydration for a more youthful complexion. It also upregulates the skin's hyaluronic acid production and replenishes ceramide levels.
 

Oat Cosmetics introduced AvenaPLex lipid complex at in-cosmetics Global 2025

Hair care isn't just about shine anymore — it is about restoration, protection, and environmental alignment. It continues to be a category of intense innovation, especially around repair, scalp health, and clean formulation strategies. Innovations at the event reflected the rise of skinification in hair care and the demand for ingredients that work on both hair health and feel.

Syensqo introduced Naternal™ Care XTRA, a bio-based, fenugreek-powered polymer for deep conditioning. This polymer tackles the growing need for alternatives to conventional polyquaterniums.

Evonik's CapilMax® featured a natural active designed to deliver instant hair thickening through a unique blend of amino acids and powerful extracts.

Kuraray showcased Isopentyldiol that improves foam, sebum, and keratin plug cleansing. It offers hair repairing effect with sorbitol, color preservation, easy combing, and stronger & shinier hair.

Givaudan Active Beauty leads the charge with DandErase™, a botanical active made from upcycled Crocus sativus petals. It targets dandruff's root causes, notably Malassezia overgrowth and microbiome imbalance. DandErase™ is part of Givaudan's 'circular beauty' strategy, utilizing waste streams and eco-friendly production. Clinical trials demonstrate up to 95% reduction in dandruff within 3 days.

Croda's innovation is Sphingo'HAIR™ Drypure™, a unique bio-fermentation derived ceramide NP which replenishes the skin with essential longer-chain ceramides and promotes healthy scalp and hair barrier structures.

Ashland introduced:
 

• n-durhance™ es-repair polymer, a durable polymer for split end repair that enhances feel and manageability under heat and wet conditions
• Styleze™ es-forza polymer allows customizable stiffness and hold, even in high humidity, enabling plant-based, high-performance formulations for gels and creams
• fiberHance™ bm solution penetrates deep into the hair cortex to form new hydrogen and ionic bonds, reinforcing internal keratin structures for stronger, more manageable hair
• texturpure™ sa-2 ingredient is a nature-derived [>86% naturality (ISO 16128)], sensorial boosting texturizer. It has been designed to replace synthetic ingredients like acrylate-based polymers

CLR's MultiMoist CLR™ emerged as a multifunctional protector for natural hair care. It helps combat keratin degradation, color fading, and frizz, while enhancing manageability.

Syensqo's Cerafy™ Mix Repair, a ceramide-lipid concentrate, delivers scalp-to-strand benefits. It repairs, moisturizes, and soothes with ease of formulation.

Symrise launched Crinipan® PO Plus to protect the scalp from dandruff and oiliness. It targets Malassezia and thus helps to reduce dandruff on the scalp and, consequently, also redness.

 

Clean beauty is no longer synonymous with compromise. Brands now expect clean ingredients to deliver luxurious textures, appealing visuals, and sensorial satisfaction. Clean ingredients must now tick the boxes of touch, transformation, and after-feel. Let's see some of the innovations in this segment:

SEIWA KASEI's Vistanol™ GDHR-Pure is a standout here. It offers the shimmer of lanolin and the glide of silicones, without any of the baggage. This aligns with the need for natural ingredients that can meet the sensory benchmarks of synthetics, particularly in premium formats.

Syensqo's Oleogy™ LEOT exemplifies how far clean beauty materials have evolved. It has the ability to create clear stick formats and deliver a soft, powdery after-feel. These aren't just functional, but are delightful to use.

Groupe Berkem's PhytoVec® platform showcases a new era of green-tech synergy. Here, traditional actives are reimagined through modern formulation science. It allows formulators to embed sensitive bioactives (like antioxidants, anti-inflammatories, or moisturizers) into stable carriers that preserve activity until application.

Alchemy Ingredients introduced Elastoblur®, a natural texturizer. It provides instant wrinkle blurring and matte coverage, bridging the gap between makeup and skincare. It supports the growth of 'skin-first' makeup trends where care meets color.

ADEKA showcased its ADEKA NOL OUH-21 & 22 eco series — natural alternatives to polyisobutene. It delivers high-viscosity emolliency with a lightweight feel and exceptional skin compatibility, while aligning with clean beauty certifications.

Last but not least, traceability remains a cornerstone of clean beauty. BioMara is an example with its proprietary zero-waste extraction method. They source their raw materials from regenerative seaweed farms that support coastal communities and improve marine biodiversity. Their Revyntra Fucoidan offers hydration, antioxidant defense, and protection against environmental stressors.

 

While AI has already revolutionized marketing and retail, its impact on ingredient development is just beginning to emerge. in-cosmetics 2025 offered an exciting glimpse into this future.

LipoTrue's Cellaigie™ is a standout example. The peptide was designed using AI algorithms that mimic biological mechanisms of skin regeneration, such as autophagy. This not only speeds up R&D cycles but enables greater precision in targeting cellular pathways.

IMCD introduced their Beauty Studio Suncare, a formulation service platform offering SPF chassis and ready-to-use formulas. This eases regulatory, performance, and environmental burdens in product development. It is a signal that formulation simplicity is becoming a strategic tool — not only for efficiency, but for faster, lower-risk innovation.
 

LipoTrue's Cellaigie™ designed using AI algorithms; IMCD introduced the Beauty Studio Suncare platform

 

Sustainability is no longer a niche value — it is a baseline. As consumers place a premium on wellness and functional beauty, active ingredients with clinically relevant benefits and plant-based, natural, vegan origins are in high demand. The Sustainability Display at in-cosmetics Global 2025 proudly featured 44 leading suppliers. Let's see the key highlights:

 

Plant-powered beauty ingredients

Vytrus Biotech's CLARIVINE™ is derived from the fasting state of Vitis vinifera flower stem cells, which draws on plant stem cells in a new way. It replicates the biochemical state of fasting to unlock resilience and longevity mechanisms. This supports telomere protection, oxidative stress defense, and autophagy activation. The company also highlighted its research into natural plant exosomes, pointing to a future where plants are used as delivery systems for molecular communication between cells.

Evonik's SKINLIPIX® HydraShield embodies this with its plant-oil-based ceramide and moisturizer blend. It simplifies the formulation while supporting hydration and barrier integrity.

Ashland presented:
 

• natrathix™ bio cellulose: It acts as a natural thickener with emulsion stability and a pleasant skin feel, replacing traditional carbomers
• Antaron™ Opt Natural Glyceride: It offers a film-forming, water-proofing option for high-pH sun care and daily protection creams. It is derived from transformed vegetable oils

Seppic's FLUIDANOV™ 20X serves as a co-emulsifier, stabilizer, and sensorial enhancer with vegetable and renewable origin. Being 100% bio-based, it is developed and manufactured according to the 12 pillars of Green Chemistry. 
 

SpecialChem team with team Seppic

Syensqo offered a portfolio-wide demonstration of this trend:
 

• Dermalcare® VG Squalane: A 100% plant-derived emollient sourced from canola, sunflower, and olive, providing the same silky feel as traditional squalene.
• Cerafy™ Mix Repair: A water-soluble concentrate combining biomimetic ceramides and phytosphingosine, designed to restore the skin barrier.
• Oleogy™ LEOT: A natural amino acid-based gelling agent for transparent stick formats in skincare and makeup.
• Rheozan® BLC W: A biodegradable cellulose-based suspending agent effective at very low doses. It stabilizes particles and droplets without affecting viscosity, enabling elegant, clean formulations in rinse-off and leave-on formats.

The merging of botanical actives and advanced delivery technologies is a clear direction for 2025. Functional skincare is moving toward ingredient systems that not only claim benefits but also deliver them through smart encapsulation and optimized bioaccessibility. Groupe Berkem is proving this with their range:
 

• RECELLCL'IN® (Passionflower extract): Designed for oily and acne-prone skin. This extract combines anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties to support clearer complexions.
• Ko'zen® (Quince leaf extract): Touted for soothing and anti-redness effects, this active targets both facial and body skin applications.
• PhytoVec® encapsulation technology: Acquired through their ERIGER Laboratories integration, this tech enhances bioavailability and stability of sensitive plant actives.

Boreal Bioproducts showcased SpruceSugar™ — a multifunctional extract derived from sawdust and bark using a zero-waste, water-based extraction process. It is a grease barrier film-former, anionic surfactant, and low viscosity modifier.

BASF reaffirmed sustainability with its:
 

• Verdessence® Maize, a hydrolyzed corn starch styling polymer. It shows equal or superior performance in curl retention and stiffness at modest usage levels vs. synthetic polymers like PVP.
• Lamesoft® OP Plus, a wax-based opacifier with a natural origin content of up to 98.5%, pushed the boundaries of cleansing aesthetics.
• Dehyton® PK45 GA/RA, a Rainforest Alliance-certified betaine from coconut oil used as an amphoteric surfactant.
• Oximony™, a bioactive derived from sustainably sourced Lysimachia christinae to boost the skin's taurine levels. It significantly improved skin radiance and firmness in clinical studies.

*In 2024, SpecialChem platform recorded 2.7M+ searches in our cosmetic master catalog (53,000+ ingredients). BASF ranked #1 in the number of product searches received by a supplier.

 

Upcycled beauty: Ingredients with a story

Kensing made waves with its upcycled Vitamin E. Their ingredients, like Generol®, Nutripherol®, and Copherol®, are not only natural but also support anti-aging and anti-inflammatory benefits. By leveraging upcycled materials like natural Vitamin E and phytosterols, they deliver active ingredients that are clean, efficient, and capable of enhancing skin health.

Additionally, Elementis' REACH AZP 908 LC, which uses upcycled aluminum in antiperspirant formulations, provides another example of how the personal care industry is embracing sustainability while maintaining product performance.

EFP Biotek displayed their upcycled oil-based rheology modifiers. VASG and VAVSG enable 100% transparent formulations with exceptional suspending capabilities, while maximizing naturalness. Both form thixotropic gels and are suitable for non-brittle sprayable gel formulations.
 

EFP Biotek's upcycled oil-based rheology modifiers

 

Low-carbon beauty ingredients

Elkem emphasized eco-designed silicone ingredients like PURESIL™ ORG 03 and PURESIL™ N DML 15. It is created with reduced environmental footprints.

KLK OLEO positioned its DavosLife E3 Tocotrienols as a sustainable shield against blue light and pollution, made with responsibly sourced bioactives.

Evonik's TEGOSOFT® BC MB emollient is produced enzymatically, achieving over 60% lower climate footprint compared to chemically processed alternatives.

AAK's LIPEX® Illipe Soft FFL™ is sourced from a Fair for Life certified supply chain. This ingredient adds bloom resistance and unique structuring properties.

Elementis is leading the way with its Bentone® Ultimate series, including Bentone® Ultimate ISD and Bentone® Ultimate LC. These new oil-phase rheology modifiers utilize organically modified hectorite clay and a 100% natural activation system, offering high-performance gel technology that outperforms traditional systems.
 

Elementis displayed the Bentone® Ultimate series

LANXESS' Scopeblue line, which includes Purox® S Scopeblue — a biodegradable, nature-identical sodium benzoate, made using green energy and renewable material. It must achieve a minimum 50% lower carbon footprint or derive at least 50% of its materials from renewable sources.

 

The shift away from legacy preservatives continues. It is driven by both consumer preference and regulatory shifts. As consumers grow more ingredient-savvy, traditional preservatives are coming under scrutiny. This drives formulators to seek out safe, effective, and natural alternatives.

LANXESS introduced:
 

• Neolone® PH Max, a blend of phenoxyethanol with a naturally derived antimicrobial for broader protection with improved environmental credentials
• Neolone® Bio G Preservative, from sugar beet and corn, certified by COSMOS and NATRUE and is safe across various pH ranges

ADEKA's  ADEKA NOL EHG eco, a 100% natural ethylhexylglycerin alternative, stands out as a sustainable antimicrobial with skin-conditioning properties.

Clariant's Nipaguard™ SCE Vita offers a breakthrough in preservation. It is made from 100% renewable sorbitan caprylate and naturally derived benzoic acid. This modern preservative is effective at low concentrations.
 

Clariant displayed Nipaguard™ SCE Vita

Ashland's sensiva™ sc 50 natural is another example — a natural evolution of its proven multifunctional booster, now fully nature-derived.

Seqens' AdvensProtect 2-EHG Green, a 100% biobased ethylhexylglycerin, is positioned as a powerful preservation booster. It offers deodorant efficacy and multifunctional skin benefits in a single ingredient, while being pH- and temperature-independent.

Symrise AG introduced its Mindera® product platform, a groundbreaking 100% plant-based product-protection technology. The Mindera® line-up consists of four products, each with different multifunctionalities of antimicrobial performance, soothing effect.
 

Symrise AG introduced its Mindera® product platform

Beyond performance and sustainability, how a product feels remains a crucial differentiator. The integration of sensory delight with low-impact production signals a shift away from the traditional trade-off between sustainability and sensorial quality. Formulators no longer have to choose between planet and performance — they can deliver both. 58 suppliers were featured at the engaging Sensory Bar at the event.

Complementing the sensory theme, ADEKA's Tamarind eco — a natural, Cosmos-approved thickener supports texture-enhancement with minimal environmental impact. Sourced from tamarind, this rheology modifier is designed to provide both structure and performance in natural formulations.

Imerys presented ImerCare® 06D and ImerCare® 4T. Both of these are known to enhance sensory properties such as softness, silkiness, and slipperiness. Both grades are COSMOS-approved.
 

Imerys presented the ImerCare® range at in-cosmetics Global 2025

P2 Science highlighted several ingredients under their 'Feel Good' concept:
 

• Citropol® DE-4: A silicone-free emollient that improves texture and performance. For curly hair, it helps detangle, condition, and define, meeting demand in the textured haircare category
• Citropol® V6: A sustainable, volatile emollient that serves as a clean replacement for D5. It delivers a silky-light, fast-absorbing finish ideal for modern skincare and color cosmetics
• Citropol® F: A sustainable fragrance enhancer that extends top and middle notes for longer-lasting scent experiences across personal care formats

Momentive's Harmonie™ NatuVel gel is a translucent, 100% biobased elastomer gel that offers a luxurious feel, reduces oily residue, and delivers soft-focus and mattifying effects. It perfectly aligned with modern personal care trends.

Syensqo's Oleogy™ LEOT, an amino acid-based gelling agent for transparent sticks, continues the theme. This allows formulators to create elegant, glide-on formats for sun care and color cosmetics.

Seppic's GELTRAP™ formulation is a response to the challenge of replacing synthetic texturizers without compromising user experience. The GELTRAP™ delivers hydration retention, skin protection, and a luxurious after-feel.

Fragrance takes on new meaning in Iberchem's 'Ikigai' collection. This transforms scent into a deeply personal exploration of identity and purpose. This fragrance line positions olfaction not merely as a sensory pleasure but as a reflective, emotional experience.

BRB International introduced new silicone elastomer gels and bio-based emollients under the Emfinity® range. This can enhance texture, spreadability, and finish. The collection was described as redefining 'sensorial elegance,' offering a new level of touch-responsive performance.

Elkem echoed this focus with sensory-enhancing film formers and elastomer gels, designed not only for functional benefits but for tactile pleasure.

Elementis also introduced sensory experiences at their Sensory Bar, where attendees could experience multi-functional, non-greasy formulations such as a water-in-oil lotion and a gelled oil sunscreen. These formulations provide distinct sensory experiences, demonstrating the growing importance of sensory appeal in product development.


 

Conclusion
 

An impressive showcase of ingredients was witnessed. Beyond this, the diverse educational sessions, technical seminars, and interactive workshops provided invaluable insights into the key trends driving the market. The connections forged, the knowledge shared, and the inspiration ignited will fuel the development of exciting and responsible beauty solutions for the year ahead.