Anti-aging agents: How to select the right grade for cosmetics?

Skin aging is a complex biological process, which results in a decline in biochemical and physiological function, leading to: 

 

• Loss of skin luminosity and smoothness
• Lack of skin tone homogeneity
• Dark circles
• Loss of firmness
• Deep wrinkles
• Dark spots
• Skin dryness
• Sagging skin
• Loss of elasticity

1. An approach can be to first define carefully the skin benefits that are desired together with selecting a desired texture.
2. Once they are defined, one needs to investigate the most efficient active ingredients to achieve the desired effect through thorough literature search.

Let's discuss, in detail, different type of ingredients and their role while formulating anti-aging products...


 

The choice of texture is very important, reverse emulsion, direct emulsion, triple emulsion, gel, and oils will have an impact on the efficacy of the product.

To ease the selection of ingredients and systems, we have gathered here a list of ingredients that could be used in a formulation for First Signs of Aging: Moisturizer SPF 15 to get even skin tone and minimize lines.

The list of ingredients described in the matrix is non exhaustive. To address the first signs of aging, bringing moisture, correcting lines and improving the skin tone homogeneity, these categories of ingredients are essential.

 

Essential ingredients

UV Protection Avobenzone Octyl salicylate Octocrylene

Antioxidant Vitamin C Vitamin E Polyphenols, Green tea, Grape seed, Sylimarin Flavonoids Sylbin Resveratrol Ginko Biloba

Anti-inflammatory Allantoin Glycyrrhetinic acid Aloe vera, Calendula, Curcuma longa, Camomille

Melanin inhibition Niacinamide Ascorbyl phosphate Flavonoids Peptide

Collagen synthesis Copper Peptide-Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, palmitoyl oligopeptide and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 Retinol-Retinyl palmitate Centelia asiatica Vitamin C

Moisturizing Polysaccharides Sodium lactate HA NMF like

Select 3000+ anti-aging ingredients available in our database

Environment, pollution, solar radiation and cigarette smoke generate free radicals in the skin which can be destructive with varying degrees of severity. Proteins (collagen, elastane), cellular membrane lipids and DNA can be damaged causing disorders that can cause premature aging. We therefore need to protect ourselves against them. The application of antioxidant and/or antiradical products on the skin is recommended.

These antioxidants and anti-radicals are either:

 

• Molecular (e.g. vitamin C, vitamin E, polyphenols, etc.) or
• Enzymatic (SOD, Catalase, etc.) or
• In the form of trace elements (selenium, copper, zinc, etc.). 

Solar radiation – particularly UVAs – received daily play a major role in the aging process, particularly in the production of free radicals. Daily treatments integrating a sunscreen are therefore strongly recommended. Sunscreens are strongly regulated and approved sunscreens differ in Europe and in the US. Broad spectrum and balanced UV A&B is required.

 

As the skin is aggressed (heat, UV light, chemicals…), it leads to the release of enzymes such as collagenases, elastases, hyaluronidases. These enzymes degrade the extracellular matrix leading to skin wrinkling. This calls for the addition of effective anti inflammatory ingredients in the anti-aging formulation.

Small amounts of anti-inflammatory ingredients are usually effective. Some natural extracts having anti inflammatory properties can be more complex to use. These extracts could be flavonoids as their strong colors, odors, and sensitivity to oxidation may shorten product shelf life and modify preparation aesthetic properties. In order to deliver active ingredients and stabilize the formulations, encapsulation technologies make them easier to incorporate.
 

Rebuilding the extracellular matrix via collagen synthesis together with moisturizing the epidermis is the main approach to correct first lines.

Addition or stimulation of essential NMF elements for better skin barrier, and humectant effect, improving skin hydrolipidic barrier by adding/stimulating essential lipids, normalizing intracellular water transfer via aquaporins. For Collagen enhancers, choice is among vitamin C and derivatives, peptides, soy derivatives, retinol and derivatives, centella asiatica. Finally, skin tone homogeneity a main player in facial attractiveness is directly linked to melanin.

 

To inhibit melanin production, transport oxidation several ingredients show good activity from natural ingredients, vitamins and peptides.

Peptides are very expensive while natural flavonoids concentration is limited due to color issues. Vitamin C is most used in stabilized form and is also expensive. Resveratrol is expensive. A combination of them is often preferred.
 

Skin deprived of moisture is more prone to aging. Dry skin types get more wrinkles and fine lines than moisturized ones. Moisturizing ingredients in anti aging formulations help in minimizing fine lines and wrinkles. Moisturizers are often used as secret ingredients in several anti aging formulations.