Shaving cream formulation
Last update on Jan 15, 2015
This article was originally published on January 15, 2015 and revised in 2025.
This guide explores the evolution of shaving creams from traditional soap-glycerin-water formulations to modern foams and gels. It highlights lubrication, hydration, skin protection, easy application, and the formulation techniques that keep classic creams a reference in shaving products.
Ingredients and method
Shaving cream formulation difficulty
- Before starting
- Typical ingredients / usual method & tips
- Sample recipe
- To go further
Before starting: Shaving cream is a product applied to the skin to facilitate removal of hair. Traditional shaving creams have been largely replaced by aerosol products with shaving foams and gels. However shaving creams have been used for years and their soap-glycerin-water formulations keep on being a reference for all shaving products: Based on soaps added with glycerin and water. Stearic acid is an ingredient widely used in shaving creams; its soap-like character makes the beard hydrated and softened, falicitating its removal.
Required qualities:
- Well lubricant properties, skin protection against razor
- Hydrating properties, softner
- Well-tolerated, non-irritant
- Pleasant odor
- Easy application, easy to spread
- Creaminess
Usual method
Dissolve neutralizing agents in water and heat the water to 80 °C. Heat surfactants and consistency agents to 80°C. Mix slowly with water phase.
Keep under slow stirring during saponification ( during 60 minutes).
Remove from heat. Actives and sensitive ingredients should be added after the mixture have been cooled (40°C) in order to keep their properties intact.
Typical ingredients
| Must use | Surfactants | 5-20% |
| Consistency agents | 3-8% | |
| Neutralizing agents | Q.S.* | |
| Humectants | 2-10% | |
| Deionized water | Q.S. | |
| Usual | Preservatives | 0.2-1% |
| Emollients | 2-5% | |
| Film formers | 0-2% | |
| Optional | Perfume | 0.1-1% |
| Active agents | 0.1-1% |
Tips and a sample recipe
| Sample recipe: Snow shaving cream | ||
|---|---|---|
| Composition | Function | % (w/w) |
| Phase A | ||
| Stearic acid | Surfactant/soap | 8.2 |
| Polysorbate-60 | Surfactant/emulsifier | 6.0 |
| Lanolin | Emollient/emulsifier | 5.0 |
| Phase B | ||
| Triethanolamine | Neutralizing agent | 3.7 |
| Deionized water | Q.S. | |
| Glycerin | Humectant | 2.0 |
| Phase C | ||
| Phenoxyethanol, butyl-, isobutyl-, ethyl-, methyl-, propylparaben | Preservative | 0.7 |
| Perfume | 0.2 | |
How to improve the feeling and tolerance of your product?
The residual film should be to the proper pH value. It should correspond to the skin's pH level
Emollients like mineral oil and lanolin derivatives can be added, making shaving more comfortable, by rending skin softer and more supple
Method
Phase A: Oily components are heated to 80–85°C and mixed until homogeneous. Remove from heat. Mix Phase B ingredients, heat to ~60°C, and add under stirring to Phase A. Continue mixing for 60 minutes while maintaining temperature at 60°C. Remove from heat. Add preservatives and perfume when the mixture has cooled to 40–30°C.
Phase A: Oily components are heated to 80-85°C. Mix until homogeneity. Remove from heat. Mix Phase B ingredients, heat to approximately 60°C and add it under stirring to the first phase. Mixing should continue during 60 minutes while maintaining the temperature at 60°C. Then remove from heat. Add preservatives and perfume when the mixture has cooled to 40-30°C.
Properties: White pearlescent cream
To go further:
Some emollients that can make shaving more comfortable
- Beeswax: This natural substance is obtained from bees' honeycombs. Used as a thickener and emulsifier, it can also reduce inflammation and soften skin
- Olive Oil: This stable natural origin substance has excellent lubricating properties.It is nourishing and calming to the skin
- Coconut Oil: it has moisturizing properties and contributes to a quick, fluffy foam
- Safflower Oil: This natural oil which was used by ancient Egyptian to heal wounds, has moisturizing qualities and reduces skin irritations
*Q.S. (quantum sufficit) = as much as suffices