Mascara formulation
Last update on Jan 15, 2015
This article was originally published on January 15, 2015 and revised in 2025.
Ingredients and method
Steps to follow:
- Before starting
- Typical ingredients / usual method & tips
- Sample recipe
- To go further
Before starting: Mascaras are used to enhance the eyelashes. They were once prepared with oil and lamp-black. There are two main types of mascara formulation:
- water-based mascaras, known as "cream mascaras," which are in the form of an oil/water emulsion
- anhydrous mascaras, known as "waterproof mascaras", which are formulated in the form of a dispersion of waxes in non-aqueous solvents
Required qualities:
- Proper creaminess and slip are needed, without greasiness
- Easy application
- Consistency must be stable whatever the variations in temperature
- Uniformity
- Filmogenic
- Covering power
- No build-up
- Sufficient adhesion is required
- Fast drying after application but mustn't dry in the container
- Water-resistant
- Easy to remove
- Non allergenic, non-irritant
Usual method: Waxes and emollients are mixed and melted until 80°C. Pigments have to be added and dispersed in this oily mixture. Hydrophilic thickeners like gums or synthetic polymers are dispersed in hot water. Some of them require neutralization. This second phase is heated and combined with the oily phase to form the emulsion.
Typical ingredients:
| Component | Usage |
| Must use | |
| Deionized Water | Q.S.* |
| Emulsifiers | 3-10 % |
| Consistency factors / Waxes | 7-20 % |
| Emollients (liquid) | 25-70 % |
| Pigments (color) | 0.5-10 % |
| Usual | |
| Thickeners / Stabilizers | 0-1 % |
| Preservatives | 0-1 % |
| Adhesion promoters / Film formers (resins) | 2-8 % |
| Optional | |
| Water-resistant agents | 0-1 % |
| Pigments (special effects) | 0-1 % |
| Fragrances | 0-1 % |
| Active agents | 0-1 % |
Tips and a sample recipe
| Sample recipe: Natural look mascara | |
|---|---|
| Ingredients | % (w/w) |
| Phase A | |
| Water | Q.S. |
| Hydroethylcellulose | 0.50 |
| Triethanolamine | 2.00 |
| Butylene glycol | 8.00 |
| Phase B | |
| Iron oxides (CI 77499) | 10.0 |
| Phase C | |
| Glyceryl stearate | 2.50 |
| Carnauba Wax | 4.00 |
| Beeswax | 5.00 |
| Candelilla Wax | 1.00 |
| Stearic acid | 5.00 |
| Phase D | |
| Acrylates copolymer | 5.00 |
| Dimethicone | 0.5 |
| Phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, isobutylparaben | 0.7 |
Method
Phase A: Add slowly hydroxyethylcellulose in warm water (40°C). Mix until uniformly dispersed. Add the triethanolamine, mix until the gel is homogeneous, and add butylene glycol. Mixture has to be heated until 75°C in order to be combined with Part C. Mix all the ingredients of Part C and melt to 75-80°C. Then add the pigments (Part B) to C and mix until the pigments are completely wetted and uniform. Combine with part A to form the emulsion. Continue mixing (slowly) and begin cooling. Add dimethicone, polymer and preservative. Continue cooling to room temperature.
How to obtain light mascaras with water-resistant effect?
Some water-based mascaras may also have a waterproof effect. A large amount of latex should be added to the oil/water emulsion. It should be noted however that considering the low solids content, this type of mascaras is characterized by a weaker makeup power than anhydrous mascaras.
To go further
Volumizing and lengthening mascaras: Silk fibers may be added to these types of mascaras. They provide bodyfying volume and lengthen eyelashes.
- Key criteria: Rheology control helps optimize the spotted amount during application, thus helping control the thickness of eyelashes.
*Q.S. (quantum sufficit) = as much as suffices