Fraunhofer ISC & IPPM Technologies develop biodegradable silica-based setting hairspray
Last update on Jun 16, 2026
Hairsprays and hair styling products are among the most widely used cosmetic products worldwide and, according to Fraunhofer ISC, also among the most environmentally problematic. The institute states that the synthetic polymers they contain are not biodegradable, pass through wastewater treatment plants virtually unimpeded, and accumulate as microplastics in water, soil, and ultimately in the human food chain. Fraunhofer ISC further states that the market has lacked a fully biodegradable alternative for the hair styling sector. To address this challenge, the Fraunhofer Institute for Silicate Research ISC and its industry partner IPPM Technologies GmbH collaborated on the development of a new solution.
Together, Fraunhofer ISC and IPPM have developed an innovative solution using eco-friendly materials: a setting hairspray based on silica. The organization states that it is fully biodegradable and can compete with established market products in terms of holding power.
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Silica precursors cross-link directly on the hair
Fraunhofer ISC states that policy measures such as the EU-wide ban on synthetic plastic microbeads in cosmetic products, effective in 2023, and growing environmental awareness are increasing pressure on the cosmetics industry to develop products free of problematic ingredients. The institute notes that while hair care products such as shampoos are now often formulated without silicones or synthetic emulsifiers, fully biodegradable solutions are still lacking in hair styling products.
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Institute reports that market-leading hair styling products continue to rely on materials such as polyvinylpyrrolidone derivatives or polyacrylates combined with surfactants, film enhancers, and UV protection. After application, these materials form a water-insoluble film on the hair that only partially washes off in the shower, which may result in residues on the hair and microplastics entering wastewater.
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Fraunhofer ISC states that the development is based on the use of silicic acid, a substance found naturally in the environment. Silicic acid is a natural component of the environment, found in oceans and soils, and enters the food chain via plankton and plants. It further states that silicic acid is neither toxic nor harmful and has been associated with effects such as bone and skin regeneration.
Unlike conventional products that contain dissolved synthetic polymers, this development relies on molecular precursors. Fraunhofer ISC reports that the project team used a microwave process to synthesize silica clusters, described as chemically cross-linked silica precursors that can be packaged in a spray can in a formulation based on natural ingredients while remaining stable during storage.
Fraunhofer ISC explains that, unlike conventional products in which dissolved synthetic polymers are deposited as a film on the hair, the molecular precursors trigger a cross-linking reaction upon spraying. This creates a thin silica film directly on the hair surface, strengthening the hair.
Hair feels both strong and supple & provides desired hold for hairstyle
Fraunhofer ISC reports that standardized comparative tests showed that the product achieved a strengthening effect comparable to, and in some cases greater than, established market products. The institute states that the outer cuticle layer of the hair is smoothed, the hair surface becomes more uniform, and less friction occurs. As a result, the hair feels both strong and supple and provides the desired hold for the hairstyle.
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The institute states that when washed, the silica film dissolves completely, forming natural, water-soluble monosilicic acid, which does not contaminate drinking water and is harmless to the environment. Fraunhofer ISC reports that no residue remains on the hair, helping preserve its natural volume. The organization further states that in the future, silica clusters could therefore replace environmentally problematic plastics such as polyvinylpyrrolidone, polyvinyl acetate, polyurethanes, polyacrylates, or silicones in hairsprays and other styling products.
According to Fraunhofer, this development marks an important step toward sustainable hair styling without compromising the environment. The development was publicly funded as part of a ZIM cooperation project (Central Innovation Program for SMEs). The combination of the Fraunhofer ISC’s application-oriented materials expertise and IPPM Technologies' industrial expertise formed the basis for this sustainable cosmetic development. The project team is also considering further applications for the silica formulation.
Fraunhofer ISC reports that the hairspray is currently being prepared for bottling. Once all requirements have been met, the product is expected to be available on the market by the end of 2026.