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MANDELIC ACID

Last update on Jan 2, 2025
Mandelic Acid is an alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) derived from bitter almonds and used in cosmetics for its exfoliating, anti-aging, and acne-treating properties. It helps remove dead skin cells from the surface, promoting cell turnover and revealing smoother, brighter skin. It also reduces fine lines and wrinkles by stimulating collagen production and improving skin elasticity. Additionally, this ingredient is excellent for hyperpigmentation treatment, skin brightening, and oil control. In its raw form, Mandelic Acid appears as a white crystalline powder with a slight almond-like odor. Being highly soluble in water, ethanol, and other solvents - make it a versatile ingredient for cosmetic formulations. The chemical formula of Mandelic Acid is C8H8O3.
CAS Number: 90-64-2Chem/IUPAC Name: Benzeneacetic acid, .alpha.-hydroxy-EINECS/ELINCS No: 202-007-6COSING REF No: 35152

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Mandelic Acid

by Jan Dekker

INCI: MANDELIC ACID
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What is MANDELIC ACID used for?

Mandelic Acid is a versatile ingredient in cosmetics, prized for its gentle exfoliating and rejuvenating properties. It is widely used in serums, toners, and creams to promote skin cell turnover, improve texture, and reduce fine lines. Its antibacterial properties make it effective in treating acne and preventing breakouts by unclogging pores. Mandelic Acid also addresses hyperpigmentation and dark spots, evening out skin tone by inhibiting melanin production. Unlike other AHAs, its larger molecular size ensures slow penetration, minimizing irritation, making it suitable for sensitive skin. Additionally, it regulates oil production, brightens dull skin, and enhances the efficacy of anti-aging treatments.

Origin

Mandelic Acid is typically synthesized through the hydrolysis of mandelonitrile, which is derived from benzaldehyde. The process begins by reacting benzaldehyde with hydrogen cyanide to produce mandelonitrile. This intermediate undergoes hydrolysis, often using an acid or alkaline catalyst, to form mandelic acid. In natural extraction, mandelic acid is derived from bitter almonds, where the compound is isolated and purified through solvent extraction and crystallization. The synthetic route is more common for cosmetic-grade mandelic acid due to its scalability and purity.

What does MANDELIC ACID do in a formulation?

ABRASIVE

Safety Profile

Mandelic Acid is considered safe for cosmetic use when formulated appropriately, typically at concentrations of up to 10% in at-home products. It is gentle compared to other AHAs due to its slower absorption, reducing the risk of irritation and redness. However, it may cause mild tingling or dryness, particularly in sensitive individuals. Mandelic Acid can increase photosensitivity, so sunscreen is essential during use.

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MANDELIC ACID technical profile

Property Values
Boiling Point 321.8°C
Melting Point 119°C
pH 3-4
Solubility Soluble in water
Viscosity Low

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