Selecting biotech-derived ingredients without compromising performance

In simple terms, biotech-derived ingredients are materials produced or enhanced through biological processes such as: 

• fermentation,
• enzymatic transformation, or
• bioengineering⁴ 

What makes them particularly relevant is not just how they are produced, but the level of control they offer. Compared to more traditional raw materials, there is usually better consistency in composition and performance, which can make a real difference during formulation.

Fermentation-derived ingredients

Among the different biotech approaches, fermentation is probably the most established and widely used in cosmetics today. This is mainly because it scales well and delivers consistent results⁵.

A well-known example is hyaluronic acid (HA). It was historically sourced from animal tissues. It is now almost entirely produced via microbial fermentation. This has improved both purity and batch-to-batch consistency².

In practice, formulators can select from different molecular weights to adjust hydration, penetration, and film-forming properties. This flexibility is one of the main reasons HA continues to be so widely used, as relatively small changes can noticeably impact both performance and skin feel². 

Polyglutamic acid (PGA), typically produced using Bacillus subtilis, is another example. It is often compared to HA due to its strong water-binding capacity, although it tends to give a more pronounced film-forming effect. 

Biosurfactants such as sophorolipids and rhamnolipids are also becoming more common. They are generally milder and more biodegradable. However, they do not always behave exactly like conventional surfactants and may require some adjustment during formulation^5,6.

Enzyme-engineered and bio-transformed ingredients

This category includes ingredients that are not fully biotech-derived but are improved through enzymatic or biological processes.

For example, enzymatically modified oils and esters. They often show better spreadability and a more refined sensory profile. These are differences that tend to become obvious during formulation work, even if they are not always highlighted in technical data sheets.

Fermented botanical extracts are another area of interest. In some cases, fermentation can improve consistency and enhance certain properties, such as antioxidant activity or bioavailability. However, the results are not always uniform and they depend heavily on the process and raw material used⁴.

Precision biotech and advanced actives

At the more advanced end, precision biotech encompasses engineered ingredients, including recombinant peptides and proteins. These are designed for targeted biological activity³.

These materials are increasingly used in applications such as anti-aging or skin repair. However, from a practical perspective, cost and scalability still limit their broader use.

A good example of a more established solution is bio-based squalane produced via yeast fermentation. This offers consistent quality and traceability while maintaining the expected performance as an emollient.

Increasing complexity, specificity, and cost of biotech-derived ingredients in cosmetic formulations