New product concept

Seeking Optical Blurring Technology For Personal Care Products

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Type of Solution sought

  • A material or an ingredient
  • A product or a technology
  • A development partner

Description of Desired Solution

A SpecialChem Client requires a technology that delivers an instant optical blurring effects on the skin, i.e. immediately reduces the appearance of fine lines, pores and blemishes on the skin to make it appear more uniform and smooth


Background

Imperfections to the skin are visible because light isn’t uniformly diffused, creating high optical contrasts. One way to address the consumer desire for a flawless skin is to manipulate light diffusion and reduce optical contrasts. This effect is also known as the Soft Focus Effect.


There is a desire for cosmetic products to give a soft focus to the skin, like that given by a soft focus lens in photography, in order to minimize the appearance of any fine lines/wrinkles/imperfections that may be present on the skin. To achieve this, optical blurrers are added to cosmetic formulations, manipulating the transmission and diffusion of light falling onto the skin. Current cosmetic products on the market that offer blurring effects vary in performance; and none have stand-out effect.


The SpecialChem Client’s ambition is to implement or develop a technology delivering a step change in optical blurring effect, suitable for incorporation into color cosmetic or skincare products. The final results should be dramatically visible, as if the skin was just air-brushed: photo-shop for the face! 


Detailed Solution Description

The desired technology should:

  • Optical properties:
    • Ideally colourless, white, or off-white for skin care application.
    • Could be coloured/colourless for colour cosmetic applications. 
    • Scattering and transmission of light needs to be balanced, material must not be opaque when incorporated into a product.
    • Data to support the matifying power, hiding power or light diffusion capacity are a plus.
  • Powder or liquid form
    • Must be compatible with pigments
    • Must also be compatible with film formers
  • Demonstrate comfortable in-use sensory experience
  • Should be suitable with all or any of the following formulations:
    • Water-in-silicone emulsions: typically contain water, a mix of silicone fluids/silicone based materials, emulsifiers, film formers, titanium dioxide, iron oxides, mica, talc, etc.
    • Oil-in-water emulsions: typically contain water, oils, silicone fluids, emulsifiers, film formers etc.
    • May also be used in non-aqueous formulation (wax-based).
  • Be compatible with EU Regulation 1223/2009 (Cosmetic Regulation), or with the potential to be:
    • Safe for health and environment
    • Not derived from animals
    • Does not contain CMR substances (CMR=Carcinogenic, Mutagenic and Reprotoxic)

Possible Routes To Investigate

  • Reflective and diffusing particles, such as:
    • TiO2, Boron Nitride, polymeric spheres, silica, mica etc.
    • Combinations of these
  • Materials whose refractive index is significantly higher or lower than the refractive index of the medium into which they will be incorporated (R.I. of cosmetic fluids is approximately 1.5) to enable light scattering and the blurring effect.
  • Composite particles. 
  • Functional filler pigments.

Solution that are not of interest

  • Film forming technologies.

Anticipated Next Steps with Respondents

The SpecialChem Client is expecting to adopt the solution within 2 to 3 years.


Type of Outcome expected

  • Proven Concepts
  • Ready-to-use solutions
  • Partners

Company Demographics

  • Industry: Consumer Goods/Retailer
  • Annual Revenue: > £ 20 Billion
  • Years in Business: > 100 years
  • Headquarters Area: Europe


Business considered

  • Licensing
  • Contractual partnership (R&D, marketing…)
  • Funding