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Lip plumping ingredients

Last update on May 29, 2007

This article was originally published on May 29, 2007 and revised in 2025.

Lip plumping, which can also be called lip augmentation, can be achieved in more than one way. This first uses a surgical procedure to restructure and enhance the size of the lips. This is a permanent fix for those with lips that are thin, that sag, or have lines from aging and look unappealing.

The second method, and much less invasive, is by the use of synthetic or biological ingredients which give the appearance of having fuller lips. This is usually achieved with the addition of these ingredients into lipsticks or lip glosses.

In this guide, we will be talking about lip products and the ingredients that can be added to plump the lips. The most common ingredients that act as lip plumpers are those that have an affect on the lip's circulation. These are cinnamon oil, amino acids, some vitamins, peptides and collagen. The easiest way for me explain how lip plumping ingredients work is to examine the products that are already on the market that claim to have lip plumping properties. Some claims are quite interesting, so we examined the science behind them.

Cinnamon oil and collagen boosting agents

First of all, the ingredient that may have the most impact on lip plumping is cinnamon leaf oil. This is an essential oil that has the property of increasing blood flow. This increase in blood flow accounts for the lip plumping. But along with the increased blood flow is the other aspects of cinnamon that we are all well aware of.

It burns, stings and can be relatively uncomfortable on the lips. Since it is an essential oil, it must be diluted before use and there are risks of people having allergic reactions to it. It should be used at very low levels as with any other essential oil and especially those that induce a physiological change, such as blood flow to the lips.

We found a minimum of 16 products on the market that make a claim for lip plumping. A minimum of 8 will definitely work because they use the correct lip plumping ingredients. But there are many more products on the market making this claim. Some making lip plumping claims will not work at all. Let's talk about "safe products" first, those that do not burn or have an uncomfortable feeling but will plump the lips.

City Lips Lip Plumper uses two specific ingredients (Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline and Palmitoyl Oligopeptide) in just the right ratio to enhance collagen and hyaluronic acid production. "This increases the volume in the lip tissue and creates the plumping effect", says the manufacturer.

The formula also contains antioxidants and free-radical scavengers. City Lips technology reduces lip wrinkles and fine lines, makes your lips incredibly soft, hydrated, visibly fuller and more youthful, without the burning associated with some lip plumpers (no cinnamon). Another comment from the field was that it also makes lips pinker and not red or rosy. It may contain colorants which stain the lips such as D&C Red 28. The most positive comment seen on the Internet was, "City Lips plumped people's lips an average of 3 millimeters" a review which came from K. Rauen of the Good Housekeeping Institute, USA.

LipFusion, Lip Venom, and cinnamon-based plumpers

Another product that claimed lip plumping but without mention of burning or tingling was LipFusion. This is being claimed as the next generation of lip plumpers. The company states that the product contains tiny dehydrated marine collagen microspheres that are immediately absorbed by the lips and seek out the body's natural moisture. As soon as these microspheres become rehydrated, they plump the lips by holding on to the moisture they have collected creating a swelling effect which can last up to 48 hours. LipFusion was named as a finalist for the 2007 CEW Award for best Lip treatment.

But if instant lip plumping is what you are looking for, you need something that is going to physiologically alter the lips. And this means using ingredients that serve this purpose. Lip Venom is manufactured by DuWop, a company owned by two Italian women from Los Angeles, California.

Although we couldn't find an ingredient list for this product, the ad for the product stated that it is a spicy, tingly gloss that enhances the lips natural color by increasing circulation to the area. The result is shiny, bee-stung lips that cannot be achieved by wearing lipstick. We can only imagine that the product does contain cinnamon which will make the lips swell due to increased blood circulation and the "sting" that goes along with it.

Perfect Pout is manufactured by Naturopathica of Australia and contains active ingredients such as Palmitoyl Oligopeptide and L-Arginine which can stimulate collagen synthesis. The cinnamon oil in the product will immediately plump the lips by irritating the mucosa and also causing dilation of the capillaries increasing blood flow. Juice Beauty is another product that contains cinnamon oil to achieve the lip plumping affect. This product also contains phospholipids, palmitoyl oligopeptide, fatty acids and other antioxidants for additional functionality. The claims this product makes is lip plumping, moisturizing and refining and fills in fine lines around the lips.

Lip Injection by Too Faced is another product that advertises instant lip plumping. They specifically mention the slight tingling due to blood flow stimulation that lasts for about 5 minutes but they say that it is all worth it for the effects the product provides. They say the product plumps the lips up to 20% fuller for up to 4 hours "without a needle." They go on to say the their product is used by Paris Hilton, Cher, and Pamela Anderson.

Benzyl nicotinate and circulation enhancers

Another ingredient that causes a slight burning or tingling sensation which results in increased blood circulation and hence a plumping effect on the lips is the Vitamin B6 derivative, benzyl nicotinate. This ingredient is used in Naked Kiss Compact Lip Gloss & Lipstick. The plumping action rounds the lip appearance and enhances the shape of lips delicately. It is stated that each of the 12 shades is inspired by fabulous screen divas from the past and present.

The Naked Kiss Lipsticks will also smooth away lines in lips with a unique blend of moisturizers. Another product utilizing the Vitamin B6 derivative, benzyl nicotinate, is Liquid Kiss Vial. Company advertising states that the plumping from this product lasts about 3 to 6 hours. It also causes a tingling sensation that lasts about five minutes which causes an increase in circulation to the lip area that creates the plumping action. The tingling goes away, but the plumping is supposed to last.

Many ads said, "Get gorgeously plumped lips without any irritation or sting!" After you read product packages, labels and instructions for use, you can tell which product will work quickly and which will not. "Stinging" and "tingling" usually indicate that cinnamon oil or other circulation enhancers have been used as the active ingredient. "Cause and effect" will usually be an indicator as to whether a product will work or not. No tingling - no instant plump.

Some products that claim to be lip plumping just do not work. This claim would have been easily verified if a sensory panel was run prior to product launch. Do not expect products to perform as advertised especially if they do not contain any of the active ingredients mentioned above.