Facial cream recipe
Last update on Jan 15, 2015
This article was originally published on January 15, 2015 and revised in 2025.
This guide explores facial cream formulations from classic o/w emulsions to advanced w/o systems. It highlights hydration, protection, spreadability, skin tolerance, pleasant feel, non-greasiness, and formulation strategies for effective facial care.
Ingredients and method
Steps to follow:
- Before starting
- Typical ingredients / Usual method & tips
- Sample recipe
- To go further
Before starting: Facial care creams formulations include many kinds of formulations, depending on the nature of the skin or on the desired effects. Either protection against pollution and oxidation is needed or anti-wrinkle activity. Actives may also be added in order to correct an oily/ greasy skin, a dry or a sensitive skin. Many formulations are basically oil in water emulsions or water in oil emulsions. The typical skin care emulsion is now more likely to be o/w than w/o. Technology has advanced to the point where w/o stable emulsions can be prepared at room temperature.
Required qualities:
- Neutral or pleasant odor and color
- Easy to spread, pleasant feeling during application
- Easy penetration
- Non-oily/ non-greasy after application
- Non comedogenic
- Well tolerance/ non-allergenic
- Bring hydration
Usual method:
- Aqueous phase: Thickener is dispersed in cold or warm water at 75-80°C (depending on the recommendations of the producer) under intensive stirring, until a homogeneous gel is formed.
- This first phase is combined with the oily phase (Lipophilic components : emulsifiers + emollients + consistency factors) that has also been melted and heated to the same temperature.
- Mix under intensive stirring until emulsion is formed.
- Then mix gently while emulsion is being cooled.
- Sensitive components like actives, special additives and preservatives are added after the mixture has been cooled (40-30°C) to keep their properties intact.
Typical ingredients:
| Component | Usage (% w/w) |
|---|---|
| Must use | |
| Emulsifiers | 2–6% |
| Emollients | 10–35% |
| Thickener | 0.1–1% |
| Deionized water | Q.S. |
| Usual | |
| Preservatives | 0.2–1% |
| Humectants | 1–8% |
| Consistency factors | 1–6% |
| Antioxidants | 0.01–0.05% |
| UV filters | 0.01–0.5% |
| Optional | |
| Chelating agents | 0–0.02% |
| Fragrance | 0.1–1% |
| Active agents | 0.1–2% |
| Coloring agents | Q.S. |
| Aesthetic enhancers | 0.1–5% |
Tips and a sample recipe
| Sample Recipe: "Vanishing Cream" | ||
|---|---|---|
| Composition | Function | % (w/w) |
| Phase A | ||
| Glyceryl stearate | Emulsifier / consistency agent | 4.00 |
| Stearic acid | Emulsifier / consistency agent | 16.0 |
| Ceteareth-12 | Emulsifier | 3.00 |
| Octyldodecanol | Emollient | 3.00 |
| Paraffinum liquidum | Emollient | 3.00 |
| Phase B | ||
| Triethanolamine | pH buffer | 0.50 |
| Deionized Water | 69.3 | |
| Phase C | ||
| Phenoxyethanol, methyl-, ethyl-, propyl-, butyl-, isopropyl paraben | Preservative | 0.7 |
| Fragrance | 0.5 | |
Method
Phase A and phase B have to be mixed and heated separately to 80°C.
Add slowly B into A under intensive stirring until the emulsion is formed.
Then add more quickly the rest of the phase and keep stirring during a few minutes.
Continue stirring gently until the temperature is at 40°C.
Then Add phase C. Keep stirring the mixture slowly while it is being cooled.
Properties: Cream with a pearlescent aspect
How to vary the consistency of your cream?
- Changing the % of the oily phase allows variations in the final viscosity of your preparation. For Oil in Water emulsion the greater the oily phase the higher the viscosity.
- Inversely for water in oil or water in silicone emulsion: the greater the aqueous phase the higher the viscosity.
- Vary the % of thickeners (gelling agents or consistency agents like waxes). However some stabilizers can prevent settling without increasing the viscosity.
To go further:
Ingredients choice criteria:
- Dry skin formulation:
- Slow down the TEWL (Transepidermal water loss) by using occlusive emollients in the oily phase (Squalane, beeswax, triglycerides, essential fatty acids, silicones)
- Reinforce or reconstitute the NMF (Natural moisturizing factor) with adequate additives (sodium lactate, sodium PCA)
- Bring humectancy with hygroscopic components (Urea, allantoin, polyols, hyaluronic acid)
- Enhance aesthetic: As indicated above, aesthetic enhancers may be added like pearlescent pigments, texturing agents, soft-feeling agents like silicone elastomers. The aim is to obtain a product which is sense-awakening!